A donabe is made for a flame. On an induction hob most of them do not get warm at all — and that is physics, not a defect. It is the one incompatibility here that no amount of care or technique gets around, because it is decided before the pot is even lit.
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An induction hob heats by inducing an electric current in the metal base of the pan; the pan itself becomes the heater. It needs ferromagnetic metal — cast iron, or certain stainless steels — touching the surface. Fired clay conducts no such current, so no heat is produced in it. Hobs with pan detection will not power a zone they cannot detect a suitable pan on.
This is why the answer is not “turn it up” or “use a different setting”. There is no setting: the pot is not the wrong shape or the wrong size for the hob, it is the wrong material for the method. A gas flame or a radiant element heats the pot from outside; induction asks the pot to heat itself, and clay cannot.
Induction-ready donabe do exist. Bernal Cutlery’s care page makes room for them explicitly — its warning against electric and induction hobs is prefaced “unless IH specified” — and the Japanese term for them is a common enough search that it autocompletes. The construction is the obvious one: metal bonded into the base so the field has something to act on. What you cannot do is convert an ordinary donabe, and a listing that says only “donabe” is describing the ordinary kind.
If you cook on induction, the specification you need is stated on the pot, not inferred from the pictures: look for an explicit induction or IH marking, or a visible metal disc in the base. A listing that says only “donabe”, however traditional the photographs, is describing the flame kind.
There is no shop link on this page. Recommending a pot here would mean recommending one whose base construction we cannot check from a listing — which is the exact failure this page is about. The two care guides below cover the pot once you own it.
SourcesThe scent exists because the tree was infected. Uninfected wood is pale and light — whatever was added.
There is no dominant standard behind the number. Two #1000 stones can cut differently.
Glass dents, rolls and chips edges rapidly. Wood is self-healing — but grain matters more than "hardwood".
Two of these are the same knife. And a nakiri suits either hand; the usuba it resembles does not.
JIS defines it — and the definition says most washi today is machine-made from chemical pulp.
Carved from a single piece, so a snapped tine is not a repair. The tine count is a spec, not a score.
Not a quality ladder. Natural hair holds powder; synthetic is built for cream and liquid.
ISO and Japanese labelling define how matcha is made. Neither defines a grade.
Ground on one side only. The wrong side does not cut badly — it does not work.
Blue holds an edge longer and is harder to sharpen. Which is better depends on how often you sharpen.
One protects the blade, the other eats it. Scrubbing the wrong one leaves the knife worse off.
Western knives sit at 52–58 and 20–22°; harder steel is what permits 15–18°. Higher is a different bargain.
Repair is subtraction — grind past the chip on a coarse stone, then work back up the grits.
A gifted knife is said to sever the relationship. The custom is that the recipient hands back a coin.
Friction-fitted, not bonded — so it can be replaced. And a D-shaped handle is made for one hand.
The usual fix starts by soaking it. A seiro maker calls soaking strictly forbidden.
Dishwasher, microwave, sunlight. All normal, all irreversible on urushi.
Uncured urushi gives most people a rash. Cured, reactions are possible but less common.
A prefectural institute put eleven lacquer films through JIS Z 2801. Most came back undetectable.
The original ceased production around 1900. Since 1973 the word has meant pattern welding — decoration.
It conducts heat badly. That is the product — and it is also why it cracks.
Unglazed clay is porous until rice starch seals it — one simmer, once.
Real urushi cures in a humid box over days to weeks. A kit that sets in an hour is something else.
Not urushi against epoxy. Whether the material states food-contact compliance.
Pointed where Chinese ones are blunt. And two ordinary gestures read as funeral rites.
Sumi is soot held by animal glue. India ink needs no binder and dries waterproof on its own.
The body is impermeable. It is the decoration that is exposed — and you can feel which kind it is.
One boils water and gives you iron. Putting the other on heat cracks its lining for good.
The spots appear in the first week. The makers’ association says do not take them off.
The form is settled by a 2003 paper. The amount is not settled by anything.